foundation – piers

At about a week forms for the grade beams were stripped and the excavator came to fill around and over them. We ended up putting down about 40 tons of stone over the grade beams to provide a base for a cement slab for the garage/storage area.

The plans called for 19 12″x12″ concrete piers to support the main floor of the home. The concrete crew tied reinforcement to the dowels coming up from the grade beams, erected forms, and then we poured concrete again.

Pier reinforcement in process
Pier forms in process

Drawings showed 4 each 16″ long 3/4″ bolts at the top of each pier, at the corners of a square with 5″ sides. It was not clear to me how they were going to place these bolts, seemed like the plan was to just stick them in by hand after the concrete had been poured to the required elevation. That did not need like a great plan to me, so I did some poking around and found some adjustable anchor bolt jigs called AJ Speedsets. Concrete crew probably thought I was nuts, but I ordered these jigs and got the bolts (and nuts and washers) from Portland Bolt. I assembled the jigs and the crew tied them in to the pier reinforcement. Unfortunately they did not really keep an eye on centering as they poured the piers, but turned out that alignment of the bolts between piers was not super critical. Nuts were threaded on to the bolts and used to adjust 1/2″x11″x11″ steel plates on which the steel beams would rest (with an additional bearing plate that fit between the bolts). Then the space below the plates was filled with non-shrink grout. So after everything was together the bolts were no longer supporting anything, the steel beams were on plates that were on grout that was on the top of concrete piers.

AJ Speedset ready for installation, bolts 5″ apart, roughly 7″ bolt circle
Bolt assemblies embedded in tops of piers (made some plastic/tape covers to slow down corrosion)
Typical bearing plate with nuts below to adjust, W10x22 beam welded to plate
Forms at pier tops for non-shrink grout to fill space below steel plates
Grouted pier top, W10x30 on bearing plates

I am sure they are strong, but the piers came out a little rough. The sub offered to let me pay for rental and deposit of new forms, in hindsight perhaps should have done that. At some point will clean the piers up a bit, maybe grind them a bit and/or apply some stucco.

foundation – grade beams

Once the piles were in the excavator came out to dig trenches for the foundation’s grade beams, which were drawn as 2’6″ wide by 2′ high, with the bottom of the beams at an elevation of 3′, which was 4’8″ below finished grade. The structural engineer indicated that the bottom of the grade beams should be at least 3’6″ below grade to avoid any frost problems.

Excavation around piles and trenching for grade beams completed

Next the concrete subcontractor’s team assembled the forms for the grade beams and cut the piles off such that the pile tops would be embedded into the grade beams by 6″. I had asked the pile driving contractor about treatment of piles where cut but they either did not know what to do, or didn’t want to have to do anything. The plans called for cut end treatment per AWPA M4-84, I figured out that meant a product called tenino copper naphthenate 2%, so I ordered a gallon of that from poles.com and treated the cut ends of the piles myself. No cap was required, the grade beams just get poured on top of/around the pile tops.

Forms for grade beams in process, some of the piles cut

I had gone back and forth with the structural engineer on #6 (3/4″) vs #5 (5/8″) rebar for the grade beams, the concrete sub said that #6 was unusual for residential construction, but if we dropped from 6 to 5 the engineer wanted to add bars. So we decided to use the #6, but have the rebar supplier, Harris Rebar, pre-cut and pre-bend for us, including a bunch of #3 stirrups. The structural engineer also called for galvanized, after discussing we backed off on that and went with plain black bar, as this stuff was going to be encased in concrete and below grade, as well as probably over engineered. The engineer also wanted placement/shop drawings for the rebar, when I figure out what that meant I did the drawings myself.

Grade beam stirrup placement sketch, on 18″ spacing, with 3 at 6″ spacing either side of pier locations
Grade beam rebar placement diagram, laps at >= 80 bar diameters
Grade beam reinforcement
Dowells for concrete piers tied in to grade beams
Ready for concrete!

We were in to December now, which is not an ideal time to pour concrete. The structural plans called for 5000 psi cement, I managed to get that dialed back to 3500 psi to save a little money, and I think we ended up using 4000 psi. When we were ready to pour daytime temps were in the 40s and overnight temps in 20s and one night in the teens. So O&G used hot water, a non-chloride accelerator, and a mid range plasticizer. It took 7 truckloads of cement, I think about 63 cubic yards.

Getting ready to pour concrete, pump truck and snout
Pouring concrete
Two pours in the neighborhood on the same day!
Grade beam pour complete, 7 truckloads of concrete

I pushed the cement sub to put blankets on the grade beams for some thermal protection, and also pushed back against pulling the forms off too quickly.

Blanketed grade beams

For this first pour I had a lab come out to catch and test samples of the concrete. Two cylinders tested at 3980 and 4120 psi at 7 days, and six cylinders from two samplings averaged about 4500 and 4900 psi at 28 days. So despite the cold the concrete strength was good.

Forms stripped and backfilling

foundation – pile driving

Based on two test borings our Geotechnical Engineering Report concluded that piles, either timber or helical, were required to support the home. This seemed consistent with foundations for a few recently completed homes in the neighborhood, one was on timber piles, and a couple were on helical piles with grade beams. Our test borings reached refusal at 39 and 41.5 feet below the surface.

Our structural engineer thought that timber piles were superior from both engineering and cost points of view. The downside was concern about damage to an adjacent home from pile driving vibrations. Helicals were not a lot more expensive, but the chance of overages with them was probably greater, they would have to go down about 22′, and at that depth there would be multiple sections with joints, so if you fetched up against a rock or something before you got to depth you cut the pile off and try again in a different spot, and the different spot means you are redesigning your grade beams. So we decided to give the timber piles a go. I suppose we could have run them right up to the main deck, but our foundation design called for grade beams and concrete piers, a much cleaner looking approach, and better suited to the prefabricated construction approach as the precision of concrete piers coming off grade beams would be higher than timber piles sticking out of the ground (and probably requiring a bunch of bracing).

First step was to get the surveyor to come out and mark the pile locations. He used giant nails with pile numbers written on a piece of plastic. I was not sure whether excavation for grade beams would be before or after piles were in, answer was after, so a bit more work for the excavator to dig around the piles.

Pile location pins

Our lot only has one home on an adjacent lot, the other side is a small park. The owner of the adjacent home was quite concerned about damage from the installation of the piles, so in addition to engaging a geotechnical engineer to monitor and log the pile driving operation we had them do a survey of the adjacent home to document the condition before the pile driving operation, and during the pile driving they monitored vibration along the lot line. A couple of piles were 15-20′ from the adjacent home. Thankfully the soil conditions contributing to the need for a deep foundation system were also conditions that were not conducive to transmission of vibrations, which remained below acceptable levels even for the piles closest to the adjacent home, and way below acceptable levels for the piles that were further away.

The timber piles were 45 foot long CCA treated Class B southern pine with 8-inch tip and 12-inch butt minimum diameters.

Piles showing up to the site
Tips and butts
Off loading the piles
Sharpened pencils

The piles were installed with a Vulcan #2 single-acting air impact hammer with a McDermid base. The ram was 3,000 lbs and dropped 2.4 feet. Required pile working load was 25 tons, based on that they figured out that piles needed to be driven until it took at least 8 blows per inch. As the movement of the pile slowed down they marked 1 inch intervals on it and someone stood there watching the marks and counting blows. I don’t totally follow, but they did some sort of wave equation analysis to confirm we were getting a working load capacity of at least 25 tons.

Vulcan #2

The hammer and rails for same were suspended by a crane, and the crew jockeyed the thing around to get it vertical and then started driving. I forget the size of the air compressor that they used, but it was a big one.

View of site during pile driving
First pile going in!

Piles were installed to depths of 18 to 41 feet below the existing ground level. There was an intermediate layer that most of the piles pounded through (I think the crew was always hoping they would fetch up in that layer, would have been quicker that way). Occasionally they would also hit a soft spot and the pile would drop several feet with a single blow. Piles were cut off just above ground level and then we did an as-built survey, which showed that all piles were within inches of where they were supposed to be (plans indicated a tolerance of 3″, which I think we were within). We were very happy about that because it meant we did not need to make any adjustments to the plans for the foundation.

Pile “forest”
Aerial “as-built” pile survey

construction drawings

As we were securing our initial (Coastal Area Management, or “CAM”) approvals Turkel was preparing a purchase order that would take us through the detailed design process and the procurement and assembly of a prefabricated “package,” leaving us with a watertight shell, including windows and exterior doors, which we would then finish with a local builder (walls left open for installation of MEP systems, insulation, etc.).

The purchase order included:

  • Construction and permitting drawings
  • Permitting support
  • Shop drawings
  • Procurement and assembly of the package
    • Trusses and framing, architectural glulams, etc.
    • 2×6 on 16″ exterior walls
    • Huber ZIP sheathing (1/2″ exterior walls, 5/8″ roofs)
    • Warmboard-S subfloors
    • Marvin Contemporary windows (DP50) and a Marvin Multi-Slide door (DP40)
  • Local builder identification/vetting/selection

The purchase order did not include:

  • Foundation (<=0.25″ out of square, elevations within 0.25″)
  • Structural engineering
  • MEP
  • Roofing, cladding, flooring, interior doors
  • Shear walls/moment frames (per structural engineering)

We had two main concerns with the purchase order, neither of which were show stoppers, but were still concerns:

  1. There was no transparency into costs, for example we had no idea what the window package cost was, or what the markup on same was.
  2. Somewhat related to that, this was a fairly large turnkey project with conveyance to us at completion, so we were being asked to assume a level of credit risk that is unusual in new home construction (where you would normally have a number of payments, with lien releases along the way, so you would never have too much exposure to your builder or a subcontractor). If we had been funding this portion of the project with any debt and the lender was paying attention this probably would have been a problem.

A prior Turkel client we spoke with had contracted directly with the window provider and also with the provider of the building components, which would have addressed both these concerns, but Turkel pushed back hard on this approach. The lack of transparency into costs was particularly frustrating as we started working through the details of the window package, more on that in a bit.

So with the CAM approval behind us the goal now was to get a building permit ASAP, and to get on with the construction. Prior to the CAM approval we had worked through some different options for structural engineering and ended up engaging The DiSalvo Engineering Company directly (rather than through Turkel, which would have added a 20% markup). The DiSalvo contract included the preparation of stamped detailed plans for the foundation and structure of the home and periodic site visits to check conformance to plans.

So on to the process of getting to building department approval of construction drawings:

5/14 – Turkel provided a DD (design development) set of plans to get the structural engineer going and to help with initial efforts to identify and select a local builder.

The DD set was provided to DeSalvo 5/19 and there was back and forth between them and Turkel. DiSalvo provided schematic framing plans to Turkel 6/9 for discussion, and we were all targeting 7/1 for a CD set we could use for the building permit submission. While this was in process we were weighing timber vs helical piles for the foundation system, discussing MEP design vs design/build, and looking more closely at the window package (SD did not give much or any consideration to air flow through the home). We were also working on a Turkel provided “builder specification” that would be used to cost out the non-package portion of the project and select a local builder.

7/1 – DiSalvo provided a foundation permitting set of drawings. At this point engaging a local builder and engaging a pile driving firm were the critical path items, so we elected to wait for a full set of plans and make a single permit submission.

8/3 – Submitted plans for permitting. Norwalk lost the plans and gave them another set a week or so later.

8/22 – Met with planning & zoning to go through their feedback, which was small inconsistencies between different drawings, need to label this and that, etc.

8/29 – Submitted updated drawings for permitting.

9/1 – Planning and zoning pointed out a few small mistakes/inconsistencies.

9/3 – Submitted updated drawings for permitting.

9/13 – Zoning permit issued.

9/15 – Building permit issued. So 13 months from signing contract with architect we had a building permit!

As we got into costing out the non-package part of the project, the main floor deck included about 355′ of steel beams (main floor deck roughly 49’x46′), about 110′ of which were under moment frames. And grade beams were mostly #6 rebar, which is unusual for residential construction. Turkel had another structural engineer that thought the home could be built without any steel, and DiSalvo said they could reduce steel a bit but the downside to that was additional concrete piers and steel to wood connections. Given where we were in the project re-doing the structural work was not an attractive option, and Turkel ended up moving the main floor deck and steel into the package, which was coming from a fabricator in Canada.

Turkel works with several different fabricators, and our purchase order indicated they would be using TekkHaus (no website any more, maybe they were acquired, or went out of business, not sure). For the steel value engineering Turkel worked with Pacific Truss Homes, so they were added to the mix with DiSalvo. The value engineering eventually went nowhere and we ended up back with TekkHaus for fabrication.

10/14 – Received final version of foundation plan with pile locations (as a result of coordination with package fabricator adjustments to the permit set were made).

2/16 – Complete construction set issued. Included additional detailing from the permit set, and incorporated a lot of work on the window package, window locations and sizes, and instead of just Marvin Contemporary went with a combination of Marvin and Integrity, more on that in a separate post.

4/20 – Final update to construction set. I think this was mainly window detailing updates.

approval process – planning & zoning and coastal (cam) site plan review/approval

Before construction could start we had to secure three main approvals:

  1. Coastal Site Plan
  2. Zoning
  3. Building Department

Norwalk Planning & Zoning handled the first two of these, and we were told that the CAM approval process could take about 60 days, so we wanted to kick that off ASAP. Doing so required plans for the house, but did not require a construction set, and did not even require a final deep foundation design, it was sufficient to indicate the house would be raised and on a deep foundation system. So once the conceptual design was complete on 1/20/16 we kicked off the CAM approval process, and to avoid any potential re-work wanted to have that complete before work on construction drawings for zoning and building department approvals started.

The main takeaway on the CAM application requirements was that we needed to engage a civil engineer to prepare a site plan, and that this was likely the main critical path item. Submissions were due about 3 weeks before the plan review meeting dates, which were generally monthly. In casting around for a local civil engineer a couple of candidates would have taken us at the end of a queue of existing commitments, but Landtech was able and willing to get right into it and pursue an aggressive submission and approval timeline, so they got the gig. They started working (without an agreement in place) on Tuesday 2/16/16 and managed to submit a package on 2/18/16 for a meeting on 3/10/16.

Prior to the 3/10/16 meeting Norwalk Planning came back with some feedback on our submission. Despite our siting the home in the AE flood zone operation of the lot we were told the home had to be built to VE flood zone specifications. We tried pushing back on this, it seemed like it might be a difficult battle to win and we were happy to elevate the home and park under it. The main drawback to the VE rules is that you are not allowed to do more than minor drainage-related grading, whereas in an AE zone you can bring the lot up by 3 feet (which others in our neighborhood have done). Our slab ended up at 7.8′ (1′ above the average lot level), with AE and VE zone base flood levels at 11′ and 14′ respectively. Norwalk Planning also wanted to know more about the foundation, which at this point had not been designed (though we had started to look for a structural engineer, thinking it might be best for the same person to do the foundation and house, rather than using the geotechnical engineer for the foundation and then having him or her coordinate with the structural engineer). We got away with showing some timber piles in the drawings (which were ultimately below grade into grade beams, with concrete columns supporting the house). Finally Norwalk Planning wanted an elevation certificate, architect thought the structural engineer, who had not been engaged, would provide, surveyor wanted construction drawings to provide, and Landtech ultimately provided (with a CT Licensed Professional Engineer seal).

Landtech asked if we wanted to have a catchment area along the edge of the seawall of our lot, with grasses etc., the idea of a barrier between the rear yard and the seawall/water did not appeal to us, so we ended up with a site plan that included 90′ of buried Cultec C-100HD galleries with water shed by driveway and roof piped to same.

At the Plan Review Committee Meeting on 3/10/16 our project was discussed and there was no call for a public hearing, which is apparently something that can be required. Landtech was hoping to secure Zoning approval at the meeting the following week, but prior to that meeting our project had to be reviewed at the next Harbor Management meeting, which meeting I attended, and was unremarkable, on 3/23/16. While this was going on we worked with Turkel and Landtech on a final version of the site plan that brought the lower level slab up a foot from the average lot grade (I really had to fight for this), avoided a variance by making some adjustments to keep the mid-peak of the roof at 31′, and fiddled with siting a bit to comply with neighborhood setback requirements that were more stringent than Norwalk B Residence “height and bulk” limits.

A final submission to Norwalk Planning and Zoning was made 3/24/16. Prior to this submission I ordered a HP Designjet T120, which can print ARCH D (24×36 inch) plans. Printing multiple sets of plans out at Kinkos was costing a small fortune. The Zoning Commission approved the CAM application at its meeting on 4/20/16 with an effective date of 4/29/16. Next step was to get the construction drawings done.

design development

We started talking to Turkel about the project a couple of months before we closed on the lot, and signed a Design Services Agreement (DSA) with them a couple of weeks before closing, with a contingency on closing, but no plan not to close and a desire to hit the ground running. The DSA deliverables included the development of a 3D digital schematic/model, then creation of 2D plans, a written specification with major interior and exterior elements, and pricing for a prefabricated component package.

Prior to launching the design process we were drawn to the Axiom 2340. We liked the open L-shaped living area with the kitchen at the elbow, and the 2-story “light well” surrounding a loft, adding to an open feel and providing light without creating a lot of dead/wasted volume. The issue with the 2340 was that it was only about 31′ wide and our lot was a trapezoid with 75′ on the water and 50′ at the road, so we wanted to push towards the water and go as wide as possible. Ideally we also wanted the master on the main level, and to have water views from that and the main living area. This led us to think that maybe a Turkel design for Lindal, the TD3 2100, might be a better starting point, but we left the starting point as a TBD as there were some things we did not like as much about the TD3 2100 (lots of bedrooms, smaller living area) and Turkel’s pitch was that they were going to ask us questions and make a recommendation.

Here are the major “touch points” and steps of our initial design “program:”

8/3 – Signed the Design Services Agreement

9/2 – Turkel architect made a site visit

9/16 – Online meeting to review a “site packet.” Main thing here was defining the building envelope based on zoning setback and height limitations, and also understanding the flood zone requirements. SketchUp was used for the online meeting.

9/29 – Online meetings scheduled for 10/7, 10/22, and 11/11. We were sent a program worksheet that listed rooms/dimensions/areas/comments, and we returned this worksheet with our comments. 3BR/2.5BA, little over 2500 soft. We nixed the idea of tray ceilings in the master and master bath.

10/6 – Online meeting scheduled for 11/25

10/7 – Online meeting to review program worksheet and discuss high level design, rooms, locations, etc. Looked at some different Turkel designs and discussed the idea of Axiom 2340 with a master sweet stapled to the side of it. Next step selection of a model/design that could be starting point for our home.

10/22 – Online meeting, “Schematic Design Review 1.” Based on our feedback on the program worksheet we were led through a series of progressions with “jelly block” rooms moved around to create a series of 3D bubble diagrams. The final progression was indeed something like the Axiom 2340 with a master suite stapled to the main level. The layout of the main spaces was pretty close to the final result, just needed to sort out location of master bath, closets, mud/laundry and mechanical rooms, and delete an upstairs bedroom. We were tasked with providing feedback in the form of what we liked and what we saw as issues (rather than providing specific solutions) to allow them to digest and refine the design.

10/26 – Received pdf packet from the 10/22 meeting, included 3 schematics, first of these was last progression from our meeting and clearly the basis of the design going forward.

11/1 – Sent our feedback on SD1. Suggested we might prefer closets to be adjacent to master instead of ensuite, discussed need for living room to also be media room, and deleted an upstairs bedroom, making other bedroom larger and maybe giving it a small deck. We went out into a parking lot and blue-taped outlines of the main living spaces to try to get an idea of size and feel, and based on that suggested that we might like a little more living room and a little less deck.

11/11 – Online meeting, “Schematic Design Review 2.” Very close to the final design. Walls were added to the model, which we were told could consume up to 15% of the floor area, and during the meeting we were able to see things moving around the interior of the 3D model.

11/14 – Received SD2 pdf packet from the 11/11 meeting.

11/18 – Sent our feedback on SD2. Didn’t like the idea of transiting the ensuite to get to one of the master suite walk-in closets, and asked about increasing size of master and guest a little bit. Asked how we would go about finding a structural engineer and also signed up geotechnical engineer for soil survey and thinking about who would design the foundation, which would likely be a deep foundation (i.e. piles). Looking forward also visited Norwalk Planning & Zoning to ask about the CAM (Coastal Area Management) approval process, which we were told could take a couple of months and so wanted to be on top of that. They marked up the requirements/forms for us, and one of the requirements I latched on to was a “drainage report.” We asked the geotechnical engineer if that could be added to his scope, but he told us we would need to engage a civil/site engineer for this. We were also wrestling with siting home in A flood zone vs pushing towards the water (where lot is wider) and having some of the home in the V zone, and trying to understand cost implications of this decision. It was very hard to get specific information on the insurance aspect of this decision without elevation certificates, but the guidance seemed to be that siting in the V zone would cost “a lot more” (even if positively elevated).

11/25 – Online meeting, “Schematic Design Review 3.” Pretty much the final design. Spent some time discussing siting in A vs V, with setbacks it would be tight keeping footprint in A (which is what we ultimately did, trimming some things to wedge the home in to the permitted envelope).

12/1 – Received SD3 pdf packet from the 11/25 meeting.

12/4 – Sent our feedback on SD3. Ensuite shower size, vanity configuration, built-ins, WICs. Small stuff. Asked what the next step was.

12/10 – Turkel said they were incorporating our comments and bringing the level of finish up in the model (cladding, windows) so it would look more like a house, and that once we signed off they would send a package out to get pricing for both their package and our local builder (local builder TBD).

12/29 – After pestering Turkel a bit received the “final design packet” (SD4).

1/5 – Sent our feedback on SD4. WICs in master suite, kitchen design (started to realize we might need help with this), concerns about blinds for tall skinny windows, idea of sliding doors from dining room to deck, and started asking questions about windows to promote air flow. On the small powder room, 5×5 near the front door, realized that was small so we needed to be smart about layout, and found a great post on powder rooms (I probably need to create a page with a list of links to sites I found helpful), so we suggested changing from A to B or C.

1/18 – Online meeting, “Schematic Design Review 5.” Mainly discussed ensuite layout, we liked Turkel’s solution to our feedback. They had some concern about commode being visible from the hallway/master, but I viewed that as big positive, with the bathroom and commode doors open there is a water view from the seat! The ensuite ended up at a bit over 140 sqft, not small but also not enormous. A large shower at 5.5x6ft, commode with a pocket door, 8′ vanity, and plenty of room for a tub.

Throne view

Final addition was a largish (12’+) sliding door for the dining room. We like the idea of being able to open up the dining area to the deck/outdoors/view. Turkel suggested sliding over accordion as the former more like big windows when closed, and given climate they would be closed quite a bit. Next steps pricing, assembling the CAM application, and a cabinetry questionnaire. The Turkel team told us we were on track for construction to start in the summer (’16).

1/20 – Received SD5 packet from the 1/18 meeting, also a cabinetry survey and design specification. Still lots of design work left to do before construction drawings would be done, but I would say this concluded the conceptual/schematic design phase of the project. So a little over five months from engagement to completion of this design phase, and we ended up with a 2561 sqft home with 412 sqft of decking (entry, rear, upper) and a lower level garage/storage area of 1725 sqft.

geotechnical investigation/soil survey

As we started getting into the approval process it became clear the design process was not just about working with the architect. In addition to the architect we needed a geotechnical engineer, a civil engineer, and a structural engineer.

First off was a geotechnical engineer for a geotechnical investigation, some called it a soil survey. Other new homes in the neighborhood had deep foundation systems, so the expectation was that we would need the same. As soon as the old house was demoed GZA GeoEnvironmental came out and took a couple of borings and shortly thereafter provided us with a report that said the topsoil/fill was not capable of supporting a foundation/home, they hit hard stuff at 39-41.5′ below the surface, and that we should use timber or helical piles to support the home.

demolition of the existing (teardown) home

Before we closed on the purchase of our lot we had an Big East Environmental check the existing home for asbestos and we also had them check to see if there was a buried oil tank (the existing home was on city gas, but it was not much extra to check for underground storage tanks so tacked that on to the scope). Big East found some asbestos so that would have to be abated before the home could be demolished (115 sqft of linoleum tile, 20 sqft of bathroom tile, and 40 sqft of roof flashing). Not a big deal, some cost and time, but no barrier to closing.

As we started the design process for the new home with the architect we discussed the demolition of the old home, and they “highly recommended” not doing that until a building permit was secured, in order to avoid unpleasant zoning changes. We did a little homework on zoning, I think I might have also stopped in to talk to the local planning & zoning people, and the new home was going to be larger and tighter to setbacks than the existing home, so we ignored the architect’s advice and proceeded with the demolition so that we could have things moving forward in parallel. For example, to conduct borings for soil tests we needed to have the demolition complete, and to design the foundation we needed the soil evaluation done. It also seemed to be hard or impossible to get liability insurance with a vacant (uninhabitable) home on the property, whereas vacant land would be covered under existing liability we already carried. We didn’t get our building permit until almost a year later, so glad we didn’t wait …

So shortly after closing on the lot we picked Terzian Trucking to do the demolition and engaged Homeguard Environmental to complete the asbestos abatement. Once the asbestos was removed Big East came back out to complete a final inspection and provided us with a Certificate of Visual Clearance and a copy of a notification they had sent to the CT Department of Health.

The demolition process in Norwalk is straight forward and probably typical. Before permitting the demolition you need to publish a notice in a local newspaper, notify your neighbors via certified mail, and post a sign on the property.

To get the demolition permit you also need a tax clearance certificate, disconnect letters for all utilities, sign off from the historical building people, asbestos clearance info, and the demo contractor needs to provide his license and proof of insurance. Surwilo Contracting handled sewer and water disconnects, coordinating with the Norwalk DPW and the local water utility. Water main was on the other side of the street, they went in through lawn and disconnected the old 3/4 line (maybe iron?) at the main. Sewer was disconnected pretty close to the street ROW line in our yard, they ran a video camera in to check remaining lateral out to the main and then capped it. 6″ PVC was in good shape so all we would need to do is reconnect. For gas the utility, Eversource, removed the meter and disconnected the line at the main, no cost to us. Electric the utility came out and removed the meter and the overhead line.

The actual demo was completed in just a few hours. No basement but a few concrete footings that were a little work to get out. Building department came out to take a look and then we received a Certificate of Compliance to close out the demolition permit.

picking an architect

During the run up to closing on the purchase of our lot in August ’15 we had the idea to build a modern home, roughly 2500 square feet and probably 3 bedrooms and 2.5 baths, comfortable for the two of us, a nice guest bedroom, and a third bedroom for that or for an office or other. When we told the broker selling us the lot about this he suggested we take a look at Turkel Design, who he said designed some nice looking modern homes and offered affordable prefabricated construction. We looked and we liked and were initially drawn to their Axiom 2340 model, which ended up being the starting point for our design.

Big decision though, so we wanted to do our due diligence and explore some other options. We couldn’t find any local architects with experience with modern homes, but heard “I have always wanted to do a modern home” a few times, and while local would have been nice (for design, oversight, local knowledge and relationships) we were not entirely comfortable being a guinea pig. There was a nice looking modern home we could see from our lot that was designed by Maryanne Thompson, similar size to what we were planning, but we tracked down the owner and construction cost of about $2 million scared us away (it did have geothermal and solar panels, but still …). An old high school classmate who is a partner at a small high end firm told us we should plan on $600psf for coastal Connecticut, which still scared us! So this reinforced the idea of modern prefab, we went and met with a Lindal representative, Turkey has partnered with them for some designs in their “TD3 Series,” but we preferred Turkel’s Axiom designs and the idea of stick-built prefab did not resonate. We also popped in to NYC to meet the principals of Resolution 4, we very much liked their body of work. A little “boxier” than Turkel’s designs, perhaps driven by their focus on modular prefab construction. We also looked briefly at Stillwater, and I don’t remember if we looked at them then, but if we were doing this again I might look at them now, evoDOMUS. After boiling the ocean for a bit we landed back with Turkel, we liked their designs, the panelized prefab approach made sense to us, we bought into the timing/quality/predictability rationale for the approach, and they initially suggested a budget that was attractive but that we knew was low, but we thought maybe we could get it done in the same zip code.

Here are the before and after photos:

tv mounts and setup (tv over fireplace)

The house is not really big enough to have a media room, so the living room also serves as the media room. Two of the three walls floor to ceiling glass with water views, and LOTS of light, one wall with a gas fireplace (Regency U900E, more on that in another post), and fourth side of the “box” open to the kitchen area (L-shaped open layout with kitchen at the corner, dining and living at the legs of the L). Wall with the fire place was about 15′ wide, and wanted a good surround sound set up (5 Meridian DSP speakers), so pretty much the only place to put the TV was over the fireplace, which is not ideal for at least two reasons, it is exposed to heat from the fireplace and it is up higher than it should be for comfortable viewing.

Fireplace heat issue is partially addressed by a 6 inch wide/3cm thick black granite mantel over the fireplace, 5′ above the floor.

Hight issue is partially addressed by a pull-down mount. There were a few options out there, I settled on a manual mount with a recessed box that lets the TV sit pretty flush with the wall when the TV is stowed (and when stowed it can be tilted a little bit, nice for casual viewing when you don’t feel like pulling the TV down). A few people make these things, I got mine from Dynamic Mounting, their Down and Out Recess. It allows you to drop the TV by up to 27″, so stowed the center of our (75″ 90 odd pound) TV is at say 82″, so the mount lets us bring it down to 55″, which is pretty good for sitting on a sofa 15′ away. Mount also lets you tilt the TV, which is nice for viewing from kitchen/kitchen island seating.

I installed the mount myself and it was a bit of a journey. The house package included interior wall framing, and I think maybe I told them what fireplace we were going to use, so they framed up a fireplace column. Issue was that the wall behind the column has master bedroom on the other side, the package assembly crew put plywood for shear wall on bedroom side of studs instead of living room side, as was indicated on the prefab package shop drawings. Plan was for in-the-wall speakers on that wall in the master, and not a great idea to cut big holes in the shear wall sheathing (engineer would have nixed that during an inspection).

Initial fireplace column

So I had them rip the fireplace column out and move the plywood sheathing to the other side of that wall. While I was at it, I created a drawing for the entire wall, would have been an extra from the architect, and saved me having to tell someone else what we wanted to do. Had carpenter reframe the column, this time using VersaLams, so everything would be nice and straight.

Reframed fireplace column

Side note on shear walls, and we had a few of them, I don’t think anyone thought to ask me what side of the walls would be better for sheathing. So if you are building and it isn’t indicated in the drawings make sure you tell your builder where to put shear wall sheathing (i.e., on the other side of walls where you want to put things in the wall).

Box above fireplace, big lag bolts into studs on 16″
With mantel and hearth, porcelain fireplace surround
Less speaker grills …

I ran a large conduit from the TV mount box over to the cabinet to the right of the TV, which houses the cable box, surround processor, Apple TV, etc. Using a Harmony Elite so cabinet can stay closed (cable box and other are IR, so line of sight, Harmony hub sits in the cabinet and picks up RF from the remote and then blasts out IR directly and through repeaters).

In the master I just did a flush mount for an old 55″ plasma TV, used a Sanus mount and an Arlington box with power to an outlet in the box and other wires coming up inside the wall.